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Thread: new puppy help!

  1. #11


    You sound very excited, it's cute puppies go through many behavioural stages before reaching adulthood. The most important thing is to socialise him/her and choose some basic ground rules which you will stick with.. Getting toilet training under control is the most important thing and making him wait to eat his meals is enough to focus on in the first 6 months or so.. I wouldn't put too much more on him than that once he's got these down pat and is building confidence, you can start introducing more. Just my opinion.. Less is more when it comes to puppies.. Think of them as toddlers and children.. They go through similar developmental stages and probably the most difficult (mainly in larger breeds).. Is adolescence (approx 7-18 months).. The equivalent of the teenage years in humans.. The last area of their brain to develop is the frontal lobe, which is responsible for empathy, emotion and understanding consequences. Ride the storm through this time because it does pass

  2. #12


    Oh we are a little nervous too! Thankyou you Shaka84lonigro that's great advice. Ive spoken to the breeder many times and asked many questions to make sure i know as much as possible also to our vets as well. As i may have previously mentioned our last dogs (my family dogs) were a miniature jack russell fox terrier a beautiful loving smart little dog and then about 12 years ago i adopted off my stepfather. ..a beagle...quite a ride that was!! we very sadly lost our beagle in January. Ive never had to toilet train a puppy as our dogs have never been indoor dogs so this is all very new and find information like everyone sharing most helpful

  3. #13


    Sorry forgot to ask this question. .our vet ((vet nurse actually told me this) that if i want to toilet train our puppy properly I will need to take him out every couple of hours overnight also? Other friends I've spoken to said they did not do this thru the night and just made sure there was newspaper down. Ive also read to remove his water after 8pm? Sorry for all the questions!

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2009


    Hi Orkneyguy

    The more your puppy only gets to go outside the better. What your friends say just makes toilet training take longer.

    Your puppy probably won't be able to hang on all night till he is about 18 weeks...

    I got mine at 10 weeks. After she screamed the house down for being left in the crate all by herself in the kitchen - I decided to take my friend's advice and put her in half a cardboard box lined with old towels and cushions (all things ok to be chewed to bits cos all puppies chew everything)... and put that next to my bed with a lead running from her - under me and tied to the other side of the bed so if she got up - I could take her out straight away.

    I didn't really need the lead because I woke up every time she moved. And she learned pretty fast if she wanted to go out - she just needed to poke me. Eventually she learned to bark at the back door when she wanted to go out (about 6 months old).

    I took her out at 10:30pm (bed time), the first night set the alarm for 12:30, 2:30, 4:30, 6:30 and eventually just moved the times to about 1am and 4am, and she was good after about 4 to 8 weeks I didn't need to set the alarm but I still got up if she got up. If she got up before the alarm we'd go out then and I'd set the alarm for about 2 hours after...

    When you go out - put puppy on lead - and be boring, no chatting, no excitement or playing - just be boring - maybe say good dog if he starts sniffing (precursor to peeing / pooping) and good dog when he goes. You may also want to use a magic word to say you want him to 1 & 2... Then straight back inside to bed and be boring.

    My last feed for the dog was 6:30pm and it probably would be a good idea to limit water after 8pm and make sure you get a number 2 before you go to bed at 10:30pm. Don't go in until you've got that. Remain calm and boring. Puppy will soon learn what is required before he gets to go back inside where it's nice and cosy.

    If there is an accident inside - be calm and boring about that. Rubbing your dog's nose in it - just makes your dog confused and frightened and if he does make the connection between pee and you being upset - he may just learn to hide when he goes.

    The couple of times it happened to me - I was just a bit slow to notice the nose down sniffing... and I scooped her up mid pee (a towel handy is good) and took her straight outside and was calm and boring again. Clean up straight away and be boring about that. Do not use bleach - it smells like pee to a dog ie a spot to pee again. I used paper towel to clean up the wet, and then used bicarb soda (sprinkle) and a mix of 1 cup vinegar to 1 litre water with a few drops of lavender oil to clean up that.

    On carpet - a lot of jumping on paper towel then a lot of bicarb soda... be careful about colour running (do a test patch).

    there is a "digital dog training text book" here with loads of advice on how to raise a puppy.
    Dog Star Daily
    Last edited by Hyacinth; 11-18-2014 at 10:35 AM.

  5. #15


    Thanks again Hyacinth some great advice again this is why these forums are so valuable. I really want to do the toilet training the best way possible (unfortunately i knew deep down this would mean waking every 2 hours at the start!

  6. #16


    Sorry am not sure if i am doing something wrong as a couple of times the reply ive posted has been cut short? I was basically saying i know we may sound clueless but just want to the best for this little pup first off and believe putting in the effort first off will pay off in the future. I will do what you've suggested Hyacinth with the thru the night routine and hope the time goes quickly! Like having a newborn again!

  7. #17


    Agreed with toilet training thread.. Especially about keeping the puppy close at night.. Puppies find the social isolation very hard (and un natural).. This age is very sensitive (from 5-16 weeks is known as the "critical" period where experiences that happen during this time remain for a very long time, if not for life).. So stressing the dog out by isolating it in such a way (especially coming from an entire litter and mother).. Surely won't benefit the dog. But don't stress too much ^_^ dogs are very hardy

  8. #18


    Thanks Shaka84lonigro yes intending on having him in our room for a couple of nights then testing out the lounge or kitchen which is just down the hall.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2009



    You probably want to have him in your room next to your bed for a month or so - Susan Garrett (my current fave dog training guru) puts her new puppies on a chair or table in a crate (with bedding) level with her bed - so they can hear her breathing and she can hear when they wake up...

    Mine still has a bed next to my bed (which was floor level futon when I first got her). She won't sleep on my bed cos I wriggle too much tho she doesn't mind sneaking on when I'm in the shower in the morning. After a couple of months - when he's toilet trained you could start moving his bed about 5 cm per night towards where you want him to be sleeping but I wouldn't do it all at once.... just bit by bit till he's where you want.

    But I'm willing to bet - he will be in a room with the humans... most dogs I know - that small - sleep next to or on the main bed with the human.

    PS I sometimes type my posts up in notepad and then paste them in - don't use MS word - something in the copy paste breaks this forum's system.
    Last edited by Hyacinth; 11-19-2014 at 06:16 PM.

  10. #20


    Oh thats sweet Hyacinth. .yes i have a feeling this little one may get his way in many things and was thinking as hd gets older he may go from crate to a little soft dog bed that could go in with our son? Or is that a silly idea? The breeder said his sleep in their crates at night im sure and they are full age?

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