Also, when i brought her in for her first vet checkup, she took a C3 vacinnation. Her 2nd injection should have been at 10weeks which included the C5 for parvo. But because she had been sick, i've put it off. Should i now wait till she is fully recovered before i do the C5? I know the C5 injection will usually make the puppy or dog unwell or lost of appetite for a day or 2 thats why i put it off.
Last edited by urecia; 03-27-2013 at 08:51 AM.
it sounds like you are working hard to save this pup... vets are not just there for the money..they know stuff.. ask around for a good one near you..
This whole process you are trying to do is for experienced people, or those who have thoroughly investigated what is wrong with the dog to cause it not to eat. It could be sheer luck that the pup can keep the food down, or that it has not vomited/choked yet. The fact your pup is reluctant to eat solids is very concerning, there are also problems such as Patent Ductus Arteriosus and Persistant Right Aortic Arch which are congenital and will never get better without surgery or require euthanasia. You have a breed known for heart problems, you got it from a very shoddy breeder so go to a vet ASAP and get that puppy checked out.Are you suggesting feeding her from tube? I've seen it done before but not sure if i would be able to do it myself. Seems something only experienced people or vets would do. My method of force feeding is pumping it into the gap behind her fang tooth. Usually she would open her mouth as soon as i pump and she would bite/lick/swallow whatever i pump in. So in a way i am not trying to choke her or anything. Just inducing fluid food into her mouth. Sometimes she would spit the watery food out but only a portion of it as she would still swallow most of the watery stuff. isnt this a safe method?
If the only reason it's alive is because you have to force feed it, that is a massive warning you need to investigate. Frankly I'm loathe to give you any more care advice because you will simply use it to avoid going and getting this dog checked out properly by a vet. If you don't like the vet, move on and find one you do like. If you don't like the advice and the vet is useless, cut the consult short and don't pay the bill, simple. I have walked out of blatant BS consults before because I too don't fork out money for nothing. But I dont do it at the risk of my animals health.
These are all great questions for a vet. Maybe if you posted what suburb/nearest city and state you're in, other people here could recommend a vet they like for you since you don't seem to like the ones you have available at the moment.
I am not a vet, if I had a puppy with the problems you describe, I would be hassling the breeder, for her vet contact, and also taking her to my favourite vet or a vet - someone I know well who has a dog - likes. I would be very worried about this particular breeder. She should not have let you take the puppy so young, she should be checking up on you to make sure it's going well and helping you if it isn't.
What is a responsible companion animal breeder? - RSPCA Australia knowledgebase
If she is a responsible breeder and follows the ANKC code of ethics, she will be very keen to ensure her puppy gets the best possible chance in life. If the eating difficulties are caused by some sort of birth defect in the mouth (that might be able to be fixed with surgery or time), she will want to know - so she can check for and avoid the problem with future puppies, and she may be rather horrified with what you've been doing regards the force feeding and avoiding the vet.6. Provide ongoing support and information to the new owner - the breeder will give their full contact details and encourage you to call them if you have any questions of concerns.
7. Will generally provide a guarantee (timeframes may vary) - the most responsible breeders will often ask you to bring the puppy back to them if it doesn't work out in order to avoid the puppy ending up at a shelter as an unwanted animal.
Find a vet that you are comfortable with, although I am not sure why you would object to a blood test. They can give a lot of information. You shouldnt be needing to force feed a puppy unless there is something very wrong.
I sometimes have to force feed rejected lambs that wont take a bottle and the best way to avoid getting milk in their lungs is to stomach tube them, although we are talking new borns lambs here. Pneumonia from force feeding is a common threat. I would be taking my puppy to a vet, very young animals have weaker immune systems and are very vulnerable
No registered breeder can sell you a puppy under 8 weeks. I am assuming you havent asked the breeder for asistance? An ethical breeder would certainly be willing to assist with advice when things go wrong as Hya has mentioned above.
Good luck and I hope this puppy pulls through.
Firstly, the C3 injection is for Parvo, Distemper and Hepatitis. The C5 covers Kennel Cough as well. So she has been vaccinated for Parvo. That doesn't mean she can't get it, but she wouldn't still be alive if she had Parvovirus.
She sounds like she has a serious medical issue going on - could be a whole multitude of things and needs correct diagnosis.
Feeding her as you are is risky and traumatic, and not a long term solution. At her age she should be weighing at least 800g-1kg so she is well behind.
She needs vet attention. To fail to provide vet care can be an offence under cruelty laws. If she chokes or inhales her food she will die anyway.
I have my fingers crossed for this little one.
Can i ask how its going?
Definitely find another vet and take your pup there, as others have said, blood tests can tell a lot. You shouldn't be force feeding the puppy, that's not going to achieve anything. It might give them more energy but its not going to fix what is wrong with your puppy. It weighs far too little, my kitten weighed 2kg at 10 weeks... Dogs and vets are expensive and wether we've owned them for a few days or 15 years, we are 100% responsible with providing them with all necessary vet care and associated costs. Pleas take pup to a new vet and keep us updated
For info, an adult female pom should weigh about 1.8kg. But they mature fast and are probably at mostly their adult weight at a few months old. Last one we babysat was a male, so slightly heavier, but 1.3kg at 8 weeks. Mature at just over 2kg now at 6months old. Poms are actually lighter than Chihuahuas.
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