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Thread: how to keep puppy safe

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2011


    Quote Originally Posted by bernie View Post
    If you have a 16 week pup that can jump a fence. There is no fence for your dog. Mine can jump from our grass, 12 feet up and over rails to get onto the deck.
    I have to disagree. I read a lot of the communication from rescue organisations and even for the most determined fence jumpers, they recommend a 6 foot fence is enough to deter them. And I have had people confirm this too. 6 foot is 183cm, 120cm is 4 foot. 12 foot is 365cm. Nothing can jump over that unless they have a foothold so they basically 'climb' up, not jump.

    I do agree with the recommendations on extending the fence, regular walks and training. Being a first time dog owner is a steep learning curve...

  2. #12


    OP, you are going to have little option but to either increase the hight of the fence or install an invisible electronic fence.

    Possibly the cheaper option is the e fence but it does mean he will alwayss have to wear the receiver and shock unit around his neck.

    I have a suspicion though that e collars are banned in NSW (???) If this is the case then if you increaee the hight of the fence, lean it inwards and leave the top 300mm or so loose so if the dog climbs or jumps on it , it will collapse inwards.

    I have 1.8 mt high colour bond fencing around my yards and have been told that even that will not stop a dog committed to getting over.
    Nev Allen
    Border River Pet Resort

  3. #13


    Thanks all. The "boundary fencing where he wears a collar" seems like a good way to go, plus also even more star posts and higher mesh.
    Appreciate the positive suggestions and especially the fence pics:-)

    He gets walked for an hour at 5:30 am, a half hour at 7:30 am, an hour in late afternoon and again at least a half hour at 8 pm. Lots of walking and lots of exercise with my 8 year old son and 12 year old daughter, who he bites EVERY SINGLE DAY. We have all gone thru puppy training and he was known as the one that bites and least trained. A cheeky sod. I would not like to be a neighbour with small children and have him visit. Too boisterous and has a bit of a wild streak, despite his breed. My son has a friend over today that has already been bitten, even with supervision and being as calm as we can.

    The reason we have fencing is to contain him so we know he is away from snakes and tick areas. We do use Advantix which is helping.

    Current fencing is not working so in order to protect him and others created this post. Will look into the collar and maybe higher fencing.

    I would love him to be a member of our 'pack', yet he does not settle down, even when inside for hours. So back to keeping him safe out side.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2011


    Wow, maybe you are actually walking him too much! (I didn't know that walking a dog too much existed until I joined this forum.)

    My dog is a nipper. She was incredibly wild when greeting people when we got her. Especially around kids. I used the "Look at that" method to teach her to stay away from kids. I only very occasionally have to say it to her now and she comes to me immediately for a reward and ignores the child. Never thought it would work so well, but there you go. And at home I use time-out for rude behaviour. If she wildly jumps up to anyone, she goes in the laundry for 30 secs, then she gets let out to try again. I continue doing this until she behaves appropriately. She got it eventually, though I have to still remind he very regularly with that one.

    Your dog is only young. Just continue with the training and it will get easier as his attention span grows.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Rural NSW


    If you do happen to decide on the mesh and star posts we bend the mesh an L shape at the bottom and cover it with dirt which in time packs hard here. It deters them if they try to tunnel out. We also keep it "wobbly" to deter climbing though mine don't try to do either.
    They have found it much more fun to excavate under the shed to make a wine cellar, lol.
    The shed floor is dirt and in there they have their canvas off the ground beds for summer ( they even get the walls sprayed in there for summer as it can be thick with mozzies) and in winter they have their bono fido wet/dry snuggly beds on top of that. They can just wipe clean if they get really muddy if I feel so inclined.

    They have the house, back yard and the gate to the dog yard always open and they have the choice of the verandah, the shed or inside in rainy muddy weather if I recon their paws are not too bad.

    As they are happy at times being asleep out in the rain or on top of a frost I am quite happy knowing they are fine in all weathers if they have to be in the dog yard for a week or two at times and snake wise we have done the very best that we can to try and keep them safe.

    They do sleep inside with us but the yard is also used while we are away and it is really paying for itself by not having to pay boarding fees.
    Last edited by Di_dee1; 10-02-2012 at 03:52 PM.

    Any posts made under the name of Di_dee1 one can be used by anyone as I do not give a rats.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2009


    rule of thumb for puppies walking - especially ones that are going to grow up as big as a lab or bigger.

    5 minutes - per month of age - 18 weeks - is about 4 months ish - means no more than 20 minutes exercise in one session.

    And you need to exercise his brain just as much if not more. Ie trick training. Exercising a dog more - helps a bit. But often you just end up with an extremely fit bored dog. So all the time playing with the dog needs to be a training exercise.

    First trick - give and get it - with a toy - not your hand.
    second trick - its yer choice / leave it - or being polite gets you the treat, and trying to steal it gets you nothing.
    third trick - bite inhibition - biting ends the fun and games. Nobody will play with you if you bite.

    ie the 12 yo - must stop playing with the puppy for at least 30 seconds or longer, and he backs off, and sits and is polite. If she rips her hand away and squeals he will think that biting her is great fun. And the bigger he gets the worse it will be.

    Whatever he loves - ball, food - make him do a really nice sit stay before you will throw the ball or give him the treat. If he moves (try faking him out when he starts getting good at this game) you don't throw the ball or deliver the treat.

    Teaching Bite Inhibition | Dog Star Daily

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