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Thread: Sally's Whelping Forum

  1. #91


    No worries. The wet food can be great for mixing up with the dry if they are fussy - as it has such a strong flavour. Fat is good - will help them stay warm if nights are cold as well! But again in moderation, mineral intake is important.

    We've been lucky with our recent (huge!) litter our local butcher was making up mince for us from his offcuts, and throwing in the smaller bones etc from chicken as well as extra fat.

    Edible bones are great - chewing up rabbit or chicken carcasses is invaluable as the calcium is readily available from the small bones. It's fairly common around here for folks to stop on the roads in the mornings and pick up any newly killed rabbits - free dog food...

  2. #92


    If only our butcher would do that lol. The worst part about feeding them is the is 9! lol All i can say is they are going to be eating 2 or 3 cans of wet food between them, by the time they are weaned and really for their new homes. In fact, the man who gave us sally, is going to pick out his 2 pups before Christmas, so i getting a bit sad but happy at the same time. i also guess that is why i have been feeding so much, so they gain weight and all have a good and fair chance of getting picked, as most will tae the big pups.

  3. #93


    The food intake gets pretty full on doesn't it? We had 12 in our last litter, and before some left at 8 weeks old we were easily spending over $20 a day on their food. People kept saying to me "12 pups? You'll make some good money won't you?"

    Ahhh... No. Five kg of mice a day plus kibble, milk replacer etc. Add in wormers and all the rest...

    Apart from the thousands on vet bills, the food bills alone account for any and all money paid for pups.

    We didn't quite break even...

    A handy tip if you can manage it - if you can find a big second hand freezer and have any handy, knowledgeable friends... You can buy one or two older, lower priced sheep from the sales, home butcher and filling up the freezer for a few months. It is a really cost effective and healthy way to maintain your dog's feeding. You can't do it if you are in suburbia of course! Even better if you know anyone with hunting licences that may be able to put you onto cheap goat, kangaroo etc carcasses.

  4. #94


    Nattylou, that is a really good idea. Yea, the babies go through a lot of food, but i love them. There will be no profit for us, we are exactly just giving them away. This is because most of the people we are giving one too, have either gave us something or will end up having to.

  5. #95


    Okay, so please don't get up me, but yesterday we gave one of the puppies to there new home. This is because the man who got it wanted it for his little girl for Christmas. The pups no longer eat from sally, as she is dried up. Also it will give her a break from the pups trying to drink from her. Please if you have something to say, say it, but it is better off. all the pups are eating tin food, a bit of dry food wet down and the man says he has puppy milk to give it. No more puppies will go to there home at this point in time...

  6. #96


    Mate, don't stress. They're not on mum and you're struggling to keep up. I'm sure you know them best, and if you trust this is the best thing for pup then I'm sure it is.

  7. #97
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Rural NSW


    At four and a half weeks old???????
    That poor pup.
    I can not believe this!!!!

    • New born puppy (birth to 2 weeks)
    Puppies in this period can only communicate by feel, temperature & scent. Things such as bowel & bladder control are not yet within puppies control nor can they control their body temperature. If I was going to purchase a puppy from a breeder, I would be dropping off one of my sweaty t shirts to be left in the whelping box for the pups first 8 weeks of life… Believe it or not, this is when toilet training starts...

    • Transition from new born to early puppy hood (2 - 3 weeks.)
    Eyes and ears are open but sight and hearing are limited. Movements are more confident, crawling can begin as soon as 2 weeks. Tail wagging & head movements are beginning to be driven by sound. Good breeders will spend a lot of time with the litter at this time, talking to the pups & touching them…

    • Awareness Period (3 - 4 weeks.)
    The puppy is learning that he is a dog and has a great need for a stable environment. It's a great time to cuddle & talk to the pup. Hearing can now be tested as it will be developed & sight as developed also. I like to remove the pups for short periods & spend time with them without the rest of the litter.

    • Pack skills development period (3 - 8 weeks)
    This is a crucial time for the puppy to spend with mother & litter mates, interaction skills are learned at this time & various canine behaviours are learned too, such as calming, greeting signals etc. He is now aware of the differences between canine and human societies.

    • Human Socialisation Period (6-12 Weeks)
    The puppy has a developed brain that can think like an adult dog. This is the best time to interact with the puppy, bring it inside for the night in front of the TV etc. Crate training is possible & should be attempted as early as possible..

    He now has the ability to learn respect, simple training steps such as come, sit, stay. We teach the elimination command at 6 week mark so the dog will toilet on command. He can now learn by association.

    The permanent man-dog bonding begins, we do not use any corrective measures when training puppies at this stage, other than removal of an available reward. My Triangle of Temptation program is perfect for a pup of this age.. See it here...

    Confidence building is now possible too. This is where I would begin drive training with a dog that will be used for this type of work…

    I also outline the rules as soon as the pup gets home, such as where the pup will sleep, eat & toilet & I also set boundaries to some behaviours like play..

    • Period of fear 12-16 Weeks
    The puppy will spook very easily in this period, & frightening experiences can have a lasting effect on the puppy.

    In this period, we don't allow children to carry or pick up puppies, nor play with them without close supervision. People are told to socialise the hell out of their pups, I don't subscribe to that idea at all.

    We try not to allow the pup in contact with dogs we don't know that are gentle with pups. A puppy subjected to an attack by another dog in this period will most likely suffer from fear aggression its whole life.

    Things learned by negative association in this period can be permanent.

    • Rank & shaping (14-18 Weeks)
    Puppies teethe at this point, this makes them chew & people are good chew toys. They begin to realise the power of their jaw & should be taught bite inhibition (for pets) at this age.

    They can also start to show signs of dominance, good pack leadership should be exercised now, a large breed dog let go at this point can be quite a handful, yes at 18 weeks.. They can learn the skills they need to dominate you & exercise these skills when they get big & strong enough, it may be funny to watch a 16 week old pup growling at you, not so funny at 16 months & 40 plus kgs..

    Keep up with positive training at this point; learning a new behaviour at this stage is easier than breaking a bad habit later. I really train often in this period, putting formality to the work the puppy can do, asking for more focus etc.

    • Selective deafness? (5-9 Months)
    It's no surprise to see puppies pretend not to hear your known commands at this age. It's at this age we introduce more formal training including consequences for disobedience.

    Dogs often chew & destroy things that have your scent on them at this point too, many pups are dumped before 9 months... why? Because they now have strength, they getting bigger, faster & less reactive to a simple "no"… By now they have either been taught to walk on a loose leash or pull on the leash..

    • Second Fear Period (8 - 16 Months)
    As puppies become what is called gangly, long legs due to growth spurts, they seem to become a little weaker in nerve than previously noted.

    It's strange sounds, new sights that often spook a dog more easily than just a week ago... It's at this time we need to be good leaders, when your dog baulks at a stairway, keep walking at full pace to show your pup all is ok. Coddling him when he shows fear will re enforce that fear & you will have to work to get over it later.

    More training now is crucial to his behavioural development.

    • Maturity (1-4 Years)
    We have so many people with German Shepherds, Rottweilers, Boxers etc that come to us at 2 years old wondering when the puppy will leave this dog? I have seen some dogs that are big pups at 4 years old.

    If the dog is a pain then it's because you haven't completed the training as suggested earlier, but better late than never. If you allow your large dog to reach maturity without any training, you're in for a hard time, possibly a dangerous one if your dog becomes dominant.

    You need to buy a mirror, take a look in it & change the person you see to an Alpha Leader..

    Dogs approaching maturity need firm handling & discipline which = positive & negative R


    I am happy to answer any questions about anything in this post....

    This article is copyright protected (2000) © and can not be used or distributed without K9 force consent. You are, however, allowed to distribute this link to direct people to this site or our website
    K9 Force Professional Dog Training & Behaviour Consultancy

    Steve Courtney
    K9 Force Professional Dog Training & Behaviour Consultancy.

    Nationally Accredited Dog Behaviour Consultant.
    Nationally Accredited Dog Obedience Trainer.
    Nationally Accredited Law Enforcement Dog Trainer.

    K9 Force Professional Dog Training & Behaviour Consultancy


    Last edited by Beau; 12-19-2011 at 11:37 AM. Reason: removal of alt forum link.

    Any posts made under the name of Di_dee1 one can be used by anyone as I do not give a rats.

  8. #98


    Its a sticky post by k9 in puppy discussions.
    If you find yourself going through hell; Don't stay. Just keep on going.

  9. #99


    If the pup is in better care then that is what matters. I have hand raised foster kittens and puppies from younger. Struggling in a large litter, not obtaining adequate food, under inadequate management will not benefit the pup at all.

    What Nia needs to realise is that breeding any animal shouldn't be undertaken if we're not equipped - whether physically, mentally or financially - to cater to all of their needs.

  10. #100


    Nattylou, thanks, he was not drinking from mum, but after all that i got the pup back. i was not there when all this went down and i have now got the pup back.

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