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Thread: Treibball training partners wanted for fun!

  1. #11
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    Bwahahaha! Banjo once joined the guy camped next to us and his dog for their morning walk to the beach - uninvited, while I was asleep in our tent. That was a good 30 min walk at least!

    Will watch the videos later, but sounds like you're making good progress. The first clicker training videos I watched used a GSD and I remember being a bit discouraged because I knew that dog was at least twice as clever as mine.

  2. #12
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    I'm loving reading this thread, it's making me laugh out loud ... Going to watch your training videos too, bet Bernie and Pohm are loving this new game

    Gosh it would be amazing to take Ruby to a party one day with adults, kids and dogs, and not be terrified of her trampling the kids in excitement, head-butting people with her kisses and flattening unsuspecting dogs with her "boxing" play tactics *sigh* back to the LAT training

  3. #13
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    I grew up with animals at kids parties. I have fond memories of tea parties with our horse Billy at the table next to my son who wanted him there lol Billy would bob for apples on halloween as a party piece. Wish i had a clicker back then.
    And my dogs are never far away when we have small people who drop food constantly! which is pretty much what duty they divided up between them. Bernie took the large child with a large plate full to stalk. Pohm, wiser, chose the unsteady toddler, who cant hold a plate level! Less of a wait.

    The kids have all been knocked over by my dogs over the years im sure. But my dogs have all been peed on, had make up put on them, been puked on, and grabbed by their kids. So live n let live a bit eh?

  4. #14
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    I guess - I would put the treat as close to where you want the dog to be doing the action - instead of sending it away from the target to get the reward - that just slows the training down. And I would ditch the clicker because it's hard to get it right - just give the dog the treat - in position when they get it right (or say yes and deliver the treat).

    But you don't want the dog coming back to you or running away for the treat.

  5. #15
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    Ooh thanks Hyacynth.
    I will treat in situ. and just give dog the treat.

    though both are touching the target now when my hands (or the treat) are nowhere near it. Just on verbal command. So perhaps back up and solidify it with just giving dog the treat. Also need to now change que command to push apparently.

    I have 1 week off, before i start my new job. so should be on a ball soon.

  6. #16
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    Today. Both bernie and pohm are able to touch the 'sheep' with their noses on command. We have done 2 sessions each with this so far.

    so, we keep doing this now, and begin shaping more forceful touches. and throwing the treat behind the ball to place the dog for the touch, in order to teach direction of toward you. Sounds complicated.

    I can see that doing the shaping to close bernie's mouth whilst touching my hand was worth while. He is unlikely to puncture the ball this way.
    and im really amazed that Bernie didn't go nuts for the ball when he fist met it. He was interested, but not silly.

    Both dogs are quite tired now. And i feel that ive given them a great start, to enjoying a game they will love.
    I wonder how long it will take, to get to bringing that ball to me across a paddock?

  7. #17
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    I think with the bringing the ball around, the original video - taught

    go round a chair - I've already got go round a pole - which you can get by throwing a toy or treat into the position ahead of where you want the dog to progress towards - ie so if they go towards the pole - you can say yes, and throw the toy a bit closer to the pole... except having done a bit of 2x2 weave pole training - my dog already knows poles are special... and will happily zoom round one or more and off to where ever the tuggit furry thing lands (or ball in a sock or bungee furry bottle holder tug). You want a toy that doesn't roll out of position when you've lobbed it there by way of reward and you don't want to anticipate and lob when the dog hasn't done what you want (though if you only do this less than once in 5 attempts - the dog will still learn what is required).

    So
    go round the chair.
    swap ball for chair
    as the dog gets to the back of the ball - cue PUSH

    at least that's what the video did.

    Theoretically I should be able to tell Frosty to go round the jump and as she gets there - tell her to jump it back towards me - erm. Possum POO. If your dog only likes food - there are some things that look like rum balls that nanna makes at christmas time - by 4 legs for dogs - in the supermarket pet food fridge section... they throw quite nicely and are high vis on a short short lawn. Or you can put food in a screw top plastic tub and lob that to position - and then run to treat there (Open the tub for dog). Or you have a friend helping with placement and timing of reward ie when you say "YES" they give dog treat where you want dog to be.

    The thing about placement - is everything the dog does - between when you mark what you want (by saying yes or clicking) and when the dog gets the treat - becomes part of the behaviour the dog will do to get the treat. So if the treat comes out of position - you have to untrain that movement away to get what you want. If you just treat when the dog does what you want - where you want the dog - then the dog learns that. And there's no extra stuff added in.

    And then after the high rate of reward while the dog is learning the job... you have to start on the "average or better" only reward that, and avoid rewarding the crap.... - which is where I frequently fail and need help. Evil hound gets very frustrated if she tries something and doesn't get her treat - as we have not trained much dealing with frustration - so neither of us are good at it.

  8. #18
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    Wow, that's really helpful. Ive watched and re-watched this part of the video, the 'go around'.
    This next bit: going around the chair. There appear to be two commands here. Firstly 'go around' and secondly 'wait' when then dog is behind the ball, oppposite me, to have it in position for the push. Both my dogs know wait so i'll be starting with the 'go around'.

    and another good thing. Whilst i cannot get the video's onto photobucket. I am currently uploading to my youtube account, that appears a little faster. its done 38% of one video whilst ive typed this.
    I have very thinly sliced frankfurters for training treats. Ive no training partner to assist with treats. So will have to be quick and run over to open the lid. This is think is the surest way that the dog only gets reward "In position". Im not the best trainer, so the less likelihood of marking the wrong place/behaviour the better.

    Question:
    whilst clicker training this treibball. Can you clicker train other 'tricks' simultaneously? or do i have to wait till dogs have got this, before starting on next?

  9. #19
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    here are the 2 video's i did yesterday. This is the first time they have seen the 'sheep'.
    so, for touch the sheep:
    bernie
    13 11 12 Treiball touch the ball with nose 067 - YouTube

    Pohm
    Treiball touch ball with nose Pohm 1st session with the 'sheep' - YouTube

  10. #20
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    i think it's best to train one trick at a time - otherwise - how does the dog know which behaviour you really want. But you could break off and do something else during the ball training.

    Eg you couldn't train sit and stand at the same time. Once the dog knows the cues - you can mix the cues up and reward for when the dog does the cued behaviour "average or better".

    So if your dog does something cute during the ball training that doesn't actually help with the ball training - you probably don't want to reward that. But you can mix in cued behaviours your dog already knows and reward those.

    Beware of lumping - asking for too much at once. Or mixing up your criteria (what you want the dog to do for a treat).

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