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Thread: Walking your dog on a loose lead

  1. #1

    Default Walking your dog on a loose lead

    Hi Everybody, I just finished reading a very long thread that made my head hurt and in that thread Newfie (I think it was you Newfie) mentioned Jan Fennel so I decided to check her out. Anyway that lead to me finding the this YouTube clip from which is exactly what I have been looking for. Thank you Newfie.

    Training your dog to heel on a loose leash: Dog training In London (HD) - YouTube

    Mo used to pull like crazy and I spent a lot of money on personal dog trainers that did not work for me but I took a bit of this and that from each one and now Mo no longer pulls (amost never). The only obstacal I face is when I walk past another dog or a person that is staying ooh isn't he beautiful. If Mo hears the word beautiful, he will literally pull me off my feet, throw himself at the admirer's feet and present his tummy for a rub. Everyone finds this very amusing, except I have hit the dust a few times and that is not amusing at all. Same thing when I walk past another dog, especially if the dog is giving out friendly vibes. The only way I have been able to control this is by keeping a distance between me and the person/dog. Which is a little sad for a friendly boy like Mo. Now walking past people is just about under control uless they say the magic word but I have to stay clear of picnics and b-b-q's and other dogs. The distance I have to use is 8 paces away. I would like to half that distance but have not had any success.

    Sorry, It's hard to keep these training issues brief. I have stoped Mo from pulling but he still leads cause that never bothered me so I will need to practice leading him. My question is, when Mo pulls toward the dog/person, should I just change direction (which is easier said than done in that circumstance) and if I keep doing that will he every learn to calmly approach the dog/person or will I be simply teaching him that they are to be avoided?

  2. #2

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    I have Nikki in heel when we are passing people and dogs so she can't jump on them so I can't help with allowing Mo to continue with a loose lead.

    Could you get him to sit or drop while the people and dogs go past? And praise him for staying in that position

  3. #3
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    I think in that other thread some mentioned that they turn round when that happens. And only allow the dog to continue towards their 'target' if they don't pull.

    I use the look at that (LAT) method with Banjo in those situations, which works quite well for us. But I suppose it is similar in that, if she does lose her focus on me, I have to create more distance between her and the distraction and try again. I rarely have to do that these days though because she is so well trained in LAT. We use it a lot in lots of different situations.

    But I usually do try to avoid letting her greet dogs on leash. Because if they are friendly, she then wants to play with them and I find two dogs on leash jumping around quite unmanageable and rather frustrating for the dogs. So I try to reserve interactions with other dogs to off leash situations. Though it does depend a bit on the other dog too. If I know them and know they will remain calm, I will allow a quick sniff.
    Last edited by Beloz; 05-26-2012 at 12:21 PM.

  4. #4

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    LAT is a good system but it takes a little while to kick in.

    What sort of lead are you using. If the dog is walking more with a loose lead than a tight lead, and does not suddenly bolt, I would try a Gentle Leader head collar.

    If he is a dog that suddenly bolts then a Gentle Walker Harness is the weapon of choice.
    Nev Allen
    Border River Pet Resort

  5. #5
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    I train a hell of a lot of dogs with lots of different dog/owner sizes and also dedication...i find it always works easily. And it is so simple. I am glad you found the video ...Well done on the loose lead

    I have no issues with a dog or two or three being out front of me as long as the leads are not tight.........You find it also works for dogs being better off lead.

    I am going to a Jan Fennell/Tony Knight Workshop/Seminar next weekend.........It is quite expensive, for a one dayer, but I have found a lot of their stuff very helpful with dogs I have been helping.

    I cannot believe how much I enjoyed a previous workshop and i was the one who thought some of their stuff did not really work LOL..........But I met some dogs who were helped and I was impressed and like I always say, I will always give anything a go and keep my mind open. there is always something new for me to learn.

    By the way Sue you have what I cal a "Katy problem"....She was the same, only she weighs 72kg....I have taught her the "look at that" or "who's there"......, get her to focus on me and when she does....I click and treat. I make her aware of the person or the possible person who might say hello. And now I call her name and when she looks I click and treat....Now when someone comes I only have to say "Katy", she automatically goes in the heeling position and we do a couple of touches, which she loves....unless I have a treat and we will treat. She has got to the stage that she looks at me when she sees a person. This takes a lot of sessions, but will work eventually. I only have martingales on my dogs. katy had the front attaching harness when she was a little unreliable, but that was during the 7-10 month silly period she went through
    Pets are forever

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    Banjo will ask for a treat sometimes when someone approaches us in the park before I have even said anything. I always feel a little blackmailed, but I am proud that she knows what to do in that situation, so I usually give her her reward. I think she just enjoys being a little smartarse and is very good at training me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Beloz View Post
    Banjo will ask for a treat sometimes when someone approaches us in the park before I have even said anything. I always feel a little blackmailed, but I am proud that she knows what to do in that situation, so I usually give her her reward. I think she just enjoys being a little smartarse and is very good at training me.
    Banjo and Katy have us trained LOL.......Have you tried "touch".....katy takes it as a reward now, she loves it
    Pets are forever

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    Quote Originally Posted by newfsie View Post
    Banjo and Katy have us trained LOL.......Have you tried "touch".....katy takes it as a reward now, she loves it
    I was just thinking about that today! Is it just a single 'trick' or do you use it to teach other things after that too?

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    Touch is now katy's reward....i charge it with the occasional food reward, but she likes it so much, it is hardly required. I use it to get her places when we first start to go somewhere. be it go on a box, follow through new doggy door, go on a plank...Katy has several items, she has a wand, that will take her anywhere and she will jump to follow, an ice-cream lid that I can move around and make smaller and disappear, so she goes to an unknown item (the box in Obedience training). I taught her "place" with touch. Tessa and Katy love touch and Annabelle does not get it...I have tried and tried, she is however really good at when I point and seems to read where I need her to go, go figure......Lukey, well Lukey is my simple puppy "what touch"?, "where are you pointing" "I don't get it"...A bit mentally challenged is our Lucas.......I think they beat any cleverness out of him. But he follows the other dogs and us anywhere, so we have some success.

    If I want a good heel, All I need is a hand with Katy, no food, just a hand And in between I can reward her with a touch...I am waiting for the day, we are no longer allowed to do it in the ring , because it is a reward LOL......
    Pets are forever

  10. #10
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    I quite like the video. I'm not sure about his reasons for why the dog is doing what it does.

    I think it doesn't want to be the leader - I think that if the human doesn't make any decision or set any limits, the dog will make the decisions for the both of them and they're not always the best choices. Dogs are opportunists. Of course 99.99% Labs will go for the food scraps / litter. It's entirely up to the human to stop it.

    But the overall approach of starting with few distractions and building up is great. You wouldn't start a kid first time on a bike in heavy rushing home traffic. And that's what dog club is like for many dogs. And heavy traffic and busy shops - isn't easy either.

    When dealing with admirers - or treat ladies who hand out treats to every and all dogs no matter how often you ask them not to... I try to spot these things first, make sure Frosty is close / on lead (depending where we are) and I ask for a sit. And I use high value rewards (did you see those fresh cooked sausages) because it's a high value distraction.

    And like the trainer did with the lead and the front door... if your dog can't get it right, don't let it complete and get what it wants. Ie don't let it greet the admirer until it can do what you want him to. You may need to wrap the lead around the nearest pole for traction. And if the admirer is willing you can use them as a training opportunity - otherwise no greetings until your dog can hold a nice calm sit or behave how you want. I also apply this to getting on or off lead. Especially at the park. We don't get off lead until we're calm.

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