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Thread: Training dogs with strong prey drive

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Southern NSW


    I use front attaching harnesses on the Rescue newfies that are softer, but have no idea about walking on lead.........I find it works great, like hya said, it gives you hind quarter control by moving the front end......if you get really used to them, you can time when you pull on them (clostest leg under them) and even the strongest dog can be made to look at you. I will use one on Katy, when she finally gets out to meet and greet after her TPLO...because she will be sooooo exited being in public again. it will be a just in case...She usually walsk so well, but it will have been 12 weeks
    Pets are forever

  2. #22


    Our agility club recommends and sells Gentle Leader Head Collars and Gentle Walker Harnesses.

    The harness is recommended where dogs dislocate your shoulder on casual walks, or is inclined to bolt if anything attracts its attention, whilst the head collar is used where dogs don't pull hard but don't respond to a call or pull on a normal collar and do not bolt at distractions.

    If a dog is a bolter, the head collar could cause injuries to the neck when it comes to the end of the leash. Well actually, its not the leash that causes the injury, its the sudden stop.
    Nev Allen
    Border River Pet Resort

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Geelong, Vic


    THe dog has a problem with cats, which is the biggest concern. The front attach harness wont do that and yes, I have tried them and seen people ripped off their feet by their dogs in them. A dog fixated in prey drive will not be swayed.

    This is something that requires equipment that helps decrease the dogs prey drive if it does engage and head halters/harnesses will not do that. For a fixated dog all they can allow the owner to do is try and wrangle it while it tries to get at the target, in some cases not even that.

    Seriously, try Glenn Cooke at Pet Resorts Australia or Steve at K9 Pro to help you with the dog before you spend any money on equipment that wont help or fix the problem. Both are working dog people with a thorough understanding of prey drive, working dogs, and other associated problems.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    melbourne australia


    I read the first list and thought
    Hand sits: pushing down my dog's ass to make him sit to prove that I'm stronger than him and to reduce dominance. NOPE
    Keep my dog outside if possible. WHY?
    Chain him for a 1 hour per day. Do TOT instead at meal times
    I eat before he does. Make him see his food while I am eating my food. Do TOT instead, but yep, you eat first.
    I walk out the door before he does. YEP
    Walk like a grandmother's pace to make my dog walk slowly because he thinks it is harder for my dog. He does not believe in running with dogs. He said walking slowly is like crawling on the ground and the dog gets better exercise. For a high drive, fast gait dog like a GSD, this is asking for advanced behaviour in a novice dog, so NOPE
    Keep the leash short and walk him on the left. Walk on left yes, short leash NOPE
    Keep dog off beds and sofas. Personal choice, but for a hard dog, YES
    Stop petting my dog temporarily. NOPE
    No rough play. Lost of rough play, but stop when he's mouthing you.
    Keep toys after play session. Keep you 'special training toy for training only, plenty of other toys that are his are ok
    No smacking or raising of voice. Smacking, nope. Raising voice NOPE, dogs have great hearing, so not necessary.
    Reprimand dog with "ah ah" instead of saying "No" because dogs don't understand English and "ah ah" is a sound they can learn to associate with no. Dogs dont undersand ah ah either, plonker, its a conditioned response to a audio cue, not a word!

    I highly recommend you go either the crate training route, as your dog seemed very responsive, and you found this method worked for you too. Perhaps crate training is where you are 'at' in your own skill level, and you can tap into that.

    Leerburg training DVDs are very good.
    As is Dilde Godried Schutzhund, Training in Drive for these types of dogs. But this is serious training, that produces a drug addict dog in my opinion. MY dog is now so conditioned to seek the endorphine rewards, he gets from satisfying his drives, he's now very obedient, but more high drive than he was at a pup. Ie. there is a consequence to training your dog this type of way. Another consequence is only the person that does the training, has this control over the dog. So im the only one he behaves for.
    The difference i have found in training this way, is my dog is lit up, crouching and quivvering for release into drive satisfaction with constant eye contact with me, who always comes when called, cant leave my side, and looks to me for drive satisfaction. Training at the GSD club, i had a very bored dog and i was even more bored by the methods. Walking too slow, too slow paced everything really yawn yawn, and food treats? forget it, who wants food when prey drive is activated, not my dog!

    I left the GSD obedience, and got further in 2 weeks training in drive, than i did in 8 weeks of being bored at the dog club. I also used Steve from K9 Pro distance learning - training in drive. If you are good with uploading videos, you send these to steve, he then corresponds back, asking you to watch the dvd at point 2.38mins, look what the dog does in response to etc. ITs actually very informative, and when i dont understand what im doing wrong, will get a reluctant yet obedient child to video me working the dog. Often this will show me my timing was off. Or i used a cue at the wrong point and confused the dog.

    I highly recommend Steve from K9 Pro's Triangle of Temptation. It on his thread here. Or on his own website for free. If you do nothing else, do this.
    IF after 1 attempt, you dont like what happened, ie you dog making a choice to to look to you for drive satisfaction and waiting patiently! then stop. If you like what you got from you dog, continue.
    Last edited by bernie; 05-10-2012 at 07:36 AM.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2009


    I agree the front attach harness will not stop a dog from wanting to chase a cat. My dog, wearing one has launched into the air (I confess the lead was a little bit loose - she had 1m. She, while still airbourne, ended up rotated around the pivot point on her chest and landed facing me - not the cat. Kind of took the fun out of it for her and I could get her attention back and shorten up the lead and do some LAT exercises.

    But it's just a tool, similar deal to the prong collar, it won't fix the problem - you have to train the dog to have some self control and be ok around cats and other distractions. And for that you need help, eg Steve Courtney...

    PS I feed my dog first - because I know me, and I've been known to forget if I don't. Not that she doesn't try to remind me, but she does that even when I have fed her.

    PPS I saw the GSD club at KCC park in melbourne - have never seen so many depressed dogs in one place. Our seminar coaches, Greg and Laura Derrett - found it sickening and couldn't look. So many dogs, and not one getting praise or reward even when they did the right thing and loads of corrections and punishment.
    Last edited by Hyacinth; 05-10-2012 at 12:05 PM.

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