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Thread: Teaching how to drop

  1. #21
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    Ps if you're using a variation of "clicker training" - and using a clicker or the word "yes" to let your dog know when they're on the right track... you only add your cue word eg "drop" when you're getting the action reliably.

    So first it might go "sit" - "yes"- "treat/reward" (repeat 5 times with something she knows or just "yes" everything she does that's different eg ear flick, looking at you, looking at something else, looking at you, standing up, getting excited etc. 5 treats, and then look to focus on stuff that works towards a drop eg a sit - don't cue at all when you're looking for something new. You can modify the environment a bit - eg if she will normally drop on a mat or pillow or in her bed - start your training for "drop" there. And if you can get 5 drops on her bed - then adding the cue - when she's on her bed, then try next to her bed... etc.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sean View Post
    I know it's not everyones cup of tea but with the use of a check chain (checking downwards) and the close eye of my trainer i had Mojo dropping straight away and then repeating this for about the next 30 minutes mixed in with other commands. After that a simple voice command and then pointing from his nose to the ground without the collar did the trick.
    Tail wagging the whole time.
    I'm glad your dog got the drop from that. Bulldogs, however, are quite stubborn and already have a low centre of gravity to keep them in any position they want. They are less likely to drop by this method. I'm assuming the check chain was used as a negative reinforcement (meaning the chain was tight at the ground, when the dog dropped the chain was loose)?

    p.s. Tail wagging doesn't always mean the dog is happy. It's an indicator of arousal to stimluation.

  3. #23
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    I had a quick read through everyone's tips on teaching the drop. I couldn't see the one i'm going to offer, so I'll put it here. (apologies if anyone already posted it)

    I have dealt with a few stubborn dogs with the drop and I found a good was was shaping (getting closer to the ground each time, with rewards). But I actually did my training on a piece of ground not level with myself. With small dogs, I would put them on a park bench or table. I would show them the treats that they were going to be rewarded with, to get their attention. Then I would stand at the end of the table with the dog and slowly bring the treat past the edge of the table to just below the dog's "ground level". It generally only took a few goes to get the dog to start trying to get down as low as possible to reach that treat off the edge. Each time the put there head/chest/ close to the ground they would be rewarded. This was the shaped until eventually they decided it was easier for them to drop the back legs too, then JACKPOT!!!! The dog and I had a party with lots of praise and treats. After the first one or two "drops" the dogs were more comfortable with dropping. That's when I moved from the edge and started using the ground.

    I did the same with large dogs, only couldn't use a table or bench, so just found some public land that had two levels. My house has a few short retaining walls out the back, so they work well. Or you can use your decking (if it's raised). It works a treat. If you try it, let me know how you go

    As mentioned in earlier posts, it's great that you haven't used the word drop yet. It means it is still sacred and you can use it as your command once you get going...And you will get going

    P.S. It's unlikely in your case, but with some dogs, they choose not to drop because it uncomfortable, particularly if they have stiff or sore hips. They can also choose not to drop (particularly small dogs) on wet grass or other wet/rough surfaces (dirt, tan bark). They don't like the feeling on their tummies.
    Last edited by The Pawfectionist; 04-30-2012 at 12:04 AM. Reason: because there were too many brackets before :P

  4. #24
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    Pawfectionist - I like the bench/platform idea - because it will be easier to reward in position. But the way you're getting the position is by luring, and I wouldn't do that more than once.

    I do like the idea of rewarding behaviours that are each a step closer to the drop, and reward so the treat is in a position that further encourages the drop. Ie the behaviour that comes between when I tell the dog they've done good ("yes" or "click"), and delivering the reward tends to be incorporated into the task in the dog's head. So if the dog has to get out of position to get the treat - it takes a lot longer for the dog to learn what I really did want.

  5. #25
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    I hear ya. 8 months in and my rottie/bordeaux can take A G E S to drop, if at all. Weird as when you stroke her, she collapses immediately to your feet literally loves her strokes.
    8 months of shaping later, and no further forward with her. I soothe myself with this thought: So what?

    She's bernie's best toy, as a toy, she doesnt have to drop, in fact, its much more fun if she wont.

  6. #26
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    Oh Bernie we can suffer together! I love when she learns new things, I believe when she masters things she is secretly super proud of herself! lol The other half keeps telling me to try something else but I am hell bent on getting this done! Ruby WILL learn to drop!! LMAO
    Rubylisious


  7. #27
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    I have issues with Pohm dropping, built like an outhouse, and just gets real stubborn, and wont drop!

    So its a slow process for us. I oscillate between, i must persevere, and sod it, she's just a toy for bernie anyway, and have done all that you describe myself lol

    Good luck.

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