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Thread: Advice Re Chicken Killer

  1. #1
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    Default Advice Re Chicken Killer

    Hey guys

    Just after some advice for a mate...unfortunately I dont have any experience in this area so all I could advise was to confine the dog.

    My mate has a staffy/bull mastiff x who has killed the neighbours chooks (3 in one house, 1 in another) and also possibly a hand raised bird in a cage.

    Cut a long story short, they have only just found out about this.

    What can she do? She is really gutted. I have suggested a run to start with just to confine the dog and also some 'treadmill' time to tire the dog out. She has said perhaps the dog is bored and is going to start taking her out mor eoften. She also thought about getting barkbusters in....I assume thats who she was talking about anyway.

    But I guess the question is, what can she do? Can she stop the dog from killing any more chickens?

    Does anyone know of a trainer in Townsville that might be able to help her?

    I told her I would ask here and let her know of the suggestions.

    Any advice greatly appreciated and will be passed on promptly.

    Chur

  2. #2

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    How is the dog getting into the neighbours yard?

    I would suggest better fencing, possibly look into electric plus as you said, exercising the dog and wearing it out.

  3. #3
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    I would suggest better containment too. Once blood has been tasted it is very hard to bring them back from it if temptation is there..eg dogs and sheep, cats, etc etc

    Any posts made under the name of Di_dee1 one can be used by anyone as I do not give a rats.

  4. #4
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    ahh electric i didnt think of that.

    The dog is going under the fence through a hole dug by the 2 wee dogs that live in the house with the chickens.

    We did talk about making sure the fence was 100% but we wondered if she might start jumping. Staffies are pretty good jumpers but maybe the bull mastiff might make her a bit big and heavy...she's about lab size from what I can gather (I havent met her but my mate said she is the same size as her last dog who i knew well). She also said she suspected the dog would be able to go over the top.

    I will pass on the electric advice and wearing her out

    She did say that she thought it was boredom and the treadmill wouldnt help that but then I said "a tired dog is a well behaved dog". Sure take her for walks to stimulate that aspect but I also reckon a bolt on the treadmill to really knacker her out will help - she wont wanna go anywhere (I know my dogs lie around all night after a 20-30 minute bike ride.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Di_dee1 View Post
    I would suggest better containment too. Once blood has been tasted it is very hard to bring them back from it if temptation is there..eg dogs and sheep, cats, etc etc
    Yea thats what I said....but at the same time not impossible. Lennox killed a cat once and after that we still had 3 cats but the first one we got we had a very long introduction period (4 months) before I thought he was over it.

    However, I am in agreeance that containment is probably the answer.

    I know she suggested to her other half a wire between 2 trees......

  6. #6
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    My 4th dog Jess is a suspected sheep killer and a confirmed cat killer.
    My cats and she will never ever meet. I am not in the least interested in trying to change her or the others who would pack and kill in a hearbeat. Better for us here to keep them separate. A single dog, yep, maybe I would try.

    The cats can not get into the back yard or dog yard and the dogs can not get out the front to where the cats are.

    Any posts made under the name of Di_dee1 one can be used by anyone as I do not give a rats.

  7. #7
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    My staffies have amazed me at how high they can jump. Depending on how much money they can spend on a fence. You could put some sort of sheeting in the ground under the fence (to stop digging under) and then make the fence higher as well. or just try the electric fence/containment collar. I think if it knows the chooks are over there, that's all it will think about and want. They are determined little buggers.

    Harley use to be able to get his head and paw's over a 6ft fence, but I don't think he would ever be able to get enough grip to heave himself over.

    There is no psychiatrist in the world like a puppy licking your face.

  8. #8

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    If they are doing an electric fence they need to do it right. You can't just chuck it on and expect it to work, it requires training.

    I would just suggest better fencing in general and as the neighbours dogs are the ones causing the holes they should be pitching in to help fix the fencing and make sure the dogs can't dig underneath.

  9. #9
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    I agree with K&P putting up an electric fence is not necessarily going to contain the dog....Some will run through or over and never come home. So there is training involved. It might be better to make a good dog run and improve all the fencing to make it "their dog proof'', What ever that height is. Once dogs have found out how much enjoyment life chase is and have found the ultimate reward in the kill, it is almost impossible to re-train. Except by very skilled Handler/Trainers, with huge commitments of time. And even then you would never trust them 100%.
    They only way would be to keep them 100% separated.
    I did have a dog with "let's chase" the ducks problem. And all I did was put that dog with the Geese, who were used to our dogs and much larger. That dog had never killed and only chased and was young. Well it got all the fun taken out of the chase. The geese chased back and geese can be formidable, with a lot of noise. But i would not put a large known killer near my geese, because it could also go the wrong way. I still had a long lead on this dog, just in case. But it got a very natural scare. Not even touched and that was enough. But I would also not trust that young dog alone with chickens or ducks in the yard, you never know.......... So she is only out loose with the geese and not out when the small duck/chickens are out.
    With some of the work dogs you can make it their job to herd the fowl and that is what I do with Tessa....She has natural herding drive, which could lead to chase and kill, so we taught her to put them away. So if she ever got to want to chase them, she would just be happy with putting them where they belong, she does this every afternoon with us. Again highly unlikely to be suitable for this particular dog, especially because they are not even their own fowl.
    Prey drive is very natural and so many of us now use it to get better performance out of our dogs, like in heeling and agility. whilst in the "olden days" trainers used to "shut down" prey drive. That is why so many dogs never looked as animated, even though they did what was asked (just)........
    So Along way to say improve the way to keep the dog contained away from the birds in general
    Last edited by newfsie; 10-06-2011 at 09:46 AM.
    Pets are forever

  10. #10
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    i can vouch for an electric fence. my dad has pigeons and has the electric fence around their loft... we didnt ever use it until we got diesel... he would roll through it chew it break it whatever because we never put it on... we fixed all the wire put it on diesel went to touch it and bam he got the shock of his life... he wouldnt pee or poo down on the grass for 2 days because hedidnt want to go near it... hes not scared of it now but he certainly knows not to touch it anymore.
    Today is a new day

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