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Thread: TOT Issues Plus Other Stuff...

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    Adelaide
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    It wouldn't hurt to wait an hour before starting.

    Should be long enough to get the rest of the pack sorted.

  2. #22

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    Thought I would update this thread approx 6 weeks in...

    so- food times are much better. He must sit and look at me in the eye for the count of 10 sec and I then release him to his meal. EVERYDAY he breaks this on the first (and often 2nd and 3rd) attempts, but gets there in the end.

    re the jumping up- this has almost disappeared- just ignorimng him/turning back/somtimes pushing away if he does it.

    Re sit/drop/stay. I am not doing enough practice with him. He will "sit"but takes his time (up to 7 seconds) and if I dont have a treat hes pretty slow.

    Dog club, bad weather, trainer was sick, I was away, so we have only done 4 sessions so far. Plan to PRACTICE MORE!!! and get to dog club each week!

    We are getting in some great long walks every day and I think this helps. Using a no pull harness which is working a wonder- hes a beagle so still scent obsessed. Have not done any off leash stuff at all.

    Last thing- he STILL jumps up and tries to sleep on the couch and chairs. I pull him off straight away but he continues to try daily (sometimes hourly). He has his lovely bed with sheepskin right next to the couch and in front of the heater- but continues to want the couch. Wish he would stop that!

  3. #23
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    Aug 2009
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    Adelaide
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    For the chairs - My dog is not allowed on the chairs - and when she was a puppy I put stacks of tin cans on them, so if she tried to get on the chair there would be a loud clanging and rattling.

    She is allowed on the couch. Which causes some confusion when I'm somewhere not home, cos she likes to sit next to me. And not everybody is ok with a dog on their couch.

    The sits and drops I train as part of the pre-dinner routine. If there is any thing that Frosty is not so good at and I want to improve, I make sure I do a quick session of those - before she gets her dinner.

    Practice more - but in short short sessions eg count out 20 treats and do a session with 20 repeats of whatever. See if you can increase the quality standard of the task with 20 treats ie start rewarding for faster sits. Have two sorts of treats. Kibble (low value) and really yummy only get when training (eg devon/fritz/roast chicken), so for a slow sit dog gets a kibble treat, and for a fast(er) sit, dog gets a tiny bit of fritz.

    I have sandwich bags loaded up with high value treats in the fridge for whatever I want to work on next.

  4. #24

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    we have some great high level treats (from greys are great on here I think...)- the wild rabbit is a true winner.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Near Newcastle, NSW
    Posts
    4,215

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    Quote Originally Posted by sweetboy View Post
    we have some great high level treats (from greys are great on here I think...)- the wild rabbit is a true winner.
    from GSD4ever

  6. #26

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    opps- sorry! the point was- great product!

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Kurrajong / Hawkesbury
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    189

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    Quote Originally Posted by sweetboy View Post
    Issues I need help with:
    Triangle of temptation- complete disaster. He is hyper about the food, wont look at me, barking, howling, half strangling himself on the leash. After 10 min I had to just let him eat- the children were crying, it felt terrible.
    K9: It sounds like you had the food too close, it needs to be moved further away or perhaps placed just out of site, under a box perhaps until your dog learns some self control.

    I realise it has been awhile since you started, how are you travelling now?
    Steve Courtney, K9 Pro - The K9 Professionals

    www.k9pro.com.au

    Official Forum Trainer and Behaviourist

  8. #28

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    The food was inside! and he was downstairs in the back yard.
    TBH- the only times he really barks and carries on is when he is tied up. He really hates it. As he is a rescue dog I have to wonder what association it has for him.
    Anyway- he is sitting down now as soon as he sees me with the food and looking me in the eye for the release before he goes to it- so huge improvment.
    The rest of the stuff is my own fault (ie- lack of consistent practice!!)

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    Kurrajong / Hawkesbury
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    K9: ok then the food needs to be placed as per the program. Dogs don't hate things really, he will be most likely frustrated by the back tie and barking so you will remove it.

    I would be going back to theback tie exercise because I am certain one day you will need it.
    Steve Courtney, K9 Pro - The K9 Professionals

    www.k9pro.com.au

    Official Forum Trainer and Behaviourist

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    melbourne australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by k9force View Post
    K9: ok then the food needs to be placed as per the program. Dogs don't hate things really, he will be most likely frustrated by the back tie and barking so you will remove it.

    I would be going back to theback tie exercise because I am certain one day you will need it.
    Do keep this up. The backtie, such a simple thing. or is it?
    inadvertently, you have taught: sit, stay, watchme, be tied calmly, and to look to you for drive satisfaction.
    How much more punch can you get in one hit!

    Priceless exercise, which should be made compulsory for dog owners to complete.

    Your dog is howling its head off. Our new pup did that. Screaming, a wrangling mess, all tied up in knots. Still only took her 2 days to 'get it' though, but she's much higher food driven dog, i had to move the bowl a little further away on day 2.

    then 2 months after this exercise, we took her camping, where she was tied up whilst at the camp site, she was very happy to chill, as she knew something good will come of this. And when i released her, it did.

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