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Thread: Motivation For Coming When Called???

  1. #11
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    Obie16813

    I'm probably not the best to advise since my puppy dog doesn't quite come enough for me to reach her to put her on lead - though calling a dog and then putting on lead is probably the worst thing you can do to it. Put it on lead when it's already with you or is distracted by greeting another dog or something.

    So puppy come - easiest way - when puppy is already bounding towards you because it wants to be with you and you're sure the puppy is going to complete all the way back to you to cuddle/pat/grab - then say "Deebo Come!" in a happy playful voice.

    Never yell at Deebo to "come" in a scoldy growl - this just gives him incentive to stay away and never tell him off for coming late or slowly - I see countless owners doing this and wondering why their dog gets worse and worse for recall but loves coming to someone like me (why oh why doesn't my own dog think this - though she is getting better at 12 months old).

    Extra incentive come - make your dog chase you. First you have to get his attention "Deebo" then you go "yi yi yi yi" in a high pitched voice and run away from Deebo. For Frosty puppy dog - I usually end up putting a fair bit of speed on, and slightly obliquely so she can see me moving instead of just getting smaller. Sometimes just bobbing up and down is enough as it simulates running but actually running is better, and as she gets close to me, I change direction zig zagging to make her concentrate more on chasing me. And that usually gets her back, close enough to me to be out of trouble - but not quite close enough to catch. Sigh.

  2. #12
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    Thankyou Hyacinth that great advice.

    I found some treats today that get pretty good results and the squeaky toy for when that doesnt work.

    Heres a little vid of Deebo training, just made a little while ago.
    YouTube - MOV03F

  3. #13
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    Nice video.

    Deebo is a lot keener to please than Frosty was at the same age. She still has a very short attention span. Trouble was/still is she's not always very interested in food. Not the kind of dog that will do ANYTHING for food or a pat.

    PS - I had to teach "Stay" and "Come" very separately. And dog club uses "Sit" - "Wait" - "Come" instead of the old "Sit-Stay-Come" - although that works better on my dog. Sigh. Anyway the problem is anticipation - ie the dog comes before you call her/him or follows you as you walk away. And with "stay" it helps to work on time in stay separate to distance from dog ie get the dog to stay with you standing right in front of him for 30 seconds or so, before you progress to leaving the dog in stay. Or leave the dog in stay but return immediately to the dog. Clearly Deebo is happy to learn to do stuff properly instead of what Frosty does which is making it up or following me - she's excellent at "heel", not so good at "stay". And footwork is supposed to be important. I'm still stuffing it up and I'm not sure if everyone does it the same way.

    The bit that makes sense is - when you ask the dog to go with you, lead off with your foot that is on the same side as the dog or next to the dog. Not sure what you do when you have two dogs. Frosty is very forgiving and pays more attention to hand signals (Stay is like a traffic stop palm facing her in front of her face or held up against your chest facing outwards), come is waving your arms around out from your sides - though my family uses one hand straight up in the air. I use one hand straight up and waving for attention (if I'm not running away already).

    Footwork continued - when you want the dog to stay, walk away from the dog leading with the foot furtherest away from the dog (usually right foot). When you return to the dog which is in "stay", come around on the dog's right with dog next to your left foot, put your left foot next to the dog and bring your right foot up square.

    Oh and forgot - auto sit after heel - Stop on your right foot and bring your left foot up square with your right foot. As you plant your right foot - that's when you give what ever command you want for your dog to stop like "drop", "stand", "sit". "Sit" is supposed to happen automatically (default if no other signal is given).

    And they wonder why heaps of people drop out of obedience training...
    Last edited by Hyacinth; 10-24-2009 at 11:26 PM. Reason: added some

  4. #14
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    (Di sneaks in and bookmarks this thread for later when she needs it)

  5. #15

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    Hello,

    i've found the best thing for recall is a whistle. Because it is the same consistent sound every time. Your voice has too many meanings, and you may be using your dogs name too much so it has little effect. Make sure you always treat your dog when he comes.

    Try it and see if it makes a difference and it may save a lot of embarrassment at the park!

    Good luck

  6. #16

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    "Stay" means "stay in that position (sit, drop, stand) & don't move until I come back to you"

    "Wait" means "stay in that position until you hear my next command"

    To "reshape" the predicting behaviour, have someone gently hold the dog while you confidently walk away. One finger looped in the correction chain/collar should be sufficient. When you turn & are in the correct position, wait a few seconds, then call the dog to you very excitedly & have the reward ready when they come in to you. Huge praise every time for getting it right.

    If they're a "bolter", keep the distance between you & the dog very short to start with & gradually increase over time. This is a hard habit to break & reshape once they've done it once.

    Start this exercise at home & gradually increase the distance & "distraction" level. Remember, when you decide to use the exercise at the park or open area for the first time, "all bets are off" & your dog may not come, or bolt just as you are within restraining distance.

    Good luck with your training.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Obie16813 View Post
    I am having the most trouble with the come when called command as he likes to ignore me, when I call him he looks at me and just wanders off he only comes when he wants to. Ive tried calling him in a very playful voice but it falls on deaf ears. Sometimes treats dont even work he's very lazy and just lays there and stares at you.
    I dont want to train him to ignore me.
    What should I do?
    How do I motivate this little 9 week old to be attracted to us?
    FOOD...FOOD...FOOD!

    I have got a good exercise you can do...it is called the "food circuit"

    Grab a handful of liver treats and sit on a chair. Get puppy's attention by showing him the treat. When he starts walking to you...say "Come Deebo"...give him the treat and then throw one on the floor about 1/2 meter away (make sure he sees you do it...let him walk to the treat and when he has picked it up...show him the one in your hand and say..."come obie". Keep doing this 20 times or so. When he gets the picture about what you want him to do...you can start throwing the treat further...always say "COME DEEBO". Eventually he will associate coming to you as something positive. Never call him over in anger by using the COME word. Come is supposed to be positive

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleasanta View Post
    FOOD...FOOD...FOOD!

    I have got a good exercise you can do...it is called the "food circuit"

    Grab a handful of liver treats and sit on a chair. Get puppy's attention by showing him the treat. When he starts walking to you...say "Come Deebo"...give him the treat and then throw one on the floor about 1/2 meter away (make sure he sees you do it...let him walk to the treat and when he has picked it up...show him the one in your hand and say..."come obie". Keep doing this 20 times or so. When he gets the picture about what you want him to do...you can start throwing the treat further...always say "COME DEEBO". Eventually he will associate coming to you as something positive. Never call him over in anger by using the COME word. Come is supposed to be positive
    Great advice. If food isn't enough of a motivator, try a squeaky toy. And sometimes you have to run in the opposite direction to get them to start running to you. Some days one thing will work & the next day, not at all. It's just a matter of having heaps of methods in your "kits of bits". If the thing that was most successful at your last training session, doesn't work next time, that's fine. Just bring out that next "motivator" & try that.

    And if you're using food, can I please suggest you use something other than what they would eat on a day to day basis. The special food/treat should be so interesting & exciting to them, that they just want to please you to get it. Some people use the dog's daily kibble as a training treat & wonder why their dog is less than enthusiastic to learn stuff.

  9. #19
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    I totally agree about the treat being something not used on a day to day basis. It works for birds too.

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Di_dee1 View Post
    I totally agree about the treat being something not used on a day to day basis. It works for birds too.
    OO, never trained a bird, so that would be interesting to hear about how it's done.

    I'm training Spirit to "bow" for the tricks section of a White show at the end of the month. I've just put venison on the product menu & have been using these treats to trick her up. She's very keen to work for them, so I've been able to get the basic "bow" (with support of my hand under her tummy 50% of the time) in 2 days. She's a pretty smart pup though I must say.

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