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Thread: Dry Food

  1. #1

    Default Dry Food

    Hi all,

    I need some advice as far as dry food goes. A little background first. I recently added an 8 week old Rottie puppy to my household. He is now 11 weeks old. So far is healthy apart from some hiccups which i have been told is normal.I recently took him in for his second vaccination.
    The vet gave me some advice on feeding advised me to feed him top quality dry food everyday and meat only 2-3 times a week. The vet said that if i gave him too much calcium (found in meat) he would grow too fast and thus the possibility of hip and joint problems. This advice does sound good and who am i to argue with a fully qualified Vet? She also said to make sure its high quality dry food such as science diet, eukanuba or royal canin. The problem this food is ultra expensive and while i do want what is best for my dog it is going to be difficult keeping up with those sorts of prices. She did say to only do this until he is 1 and then i could give him more meat based meals.

    I have spoken to quite a few breeders whilst looking to purchase my rottie and many seemed to say less dry food and more natural foods such as chicken necks, chicken frames and meaty bones. Their thinking is that Dogs are meant to be eating natural foods and not man made type dry foods which can cause cancer in dogs. This does sound like it is a valid statement also so i am torn between the 2 trains of thought.

    Do i give my rottie puppy more dry based food until he is at least 1 and then feed more of a natural meat type diet? or do i follow a more meat based diet now?

    The dry food i am using now is supercoat this ok? The vet seems prefer the higher priced brands and in fairness to her she did not ask me to purchase it from her practice. She was nice enough to write it down and a paper for me and tell me to purchase it elsewhere. Does anyone know of a place in Sydney or online that sells Eukanuba, Science Diet or Royal Canin in bulk at better rates? I figured if i buy more i may get it cheaper. As it stands now it seems a little too expensive.

    I do want to look after my dog and have with me as long as i can. I do want to give him a good head start and try to avoid halth problems normally associated with the Rottweiler breed.

    Any advice and help would be fantastic.


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    se qld


    I do want to look after my dog and have with me as long as i can. I do want to give him a good head start and try to avoid halth problems normally associated with the Rottweiler breed.
    Look in the forums and threads regarding dog feeding and nutrition.

    There is a wealth of good advice and knowledge here.
    In particular:- the members known as Newsfie and Keira and Phoenix(apologies to anyone else I have not mentioned)
    Vets ALWAYS recommend dry food because they sell it themselves.
    They know very little (or do not want to know) about nutrition.

    Wishing you many years of love and happiness with your new Bubba.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    SE QLD


    I personally find the more expensive foods to be better value for money than the cheap supermarket brands. I feed eukenuba to my two and only need one 15kg bag a month which works out to be roughly 25 bucks a week plus extras.

    I only know from what I do though, RAW is (I think) a cheaper option and is better for the dog - so long as you have the extra time for prep!

    There is no psychiatrist in the world like a puppy licking your face.

  4. #4


    wow super quick reply guys, Thanks.

    I will have a search through some threads as i have only just signed up.

    Thanks again

  5. #5


    The majority of intensive nutritional training given to vets is from food producing companies like Hills.

    I don't feed super premium due to the prices either. I prefer to spend the money on meat. And I have large to giant dogs.

    The important part of feeding meat to youngsters is to feed lower grade meat, meaty bones like the chicken ones you have mentioned, or pet grade mince that includes some offal and ground bone/cartilage material. Human grade mince and meat is not great for dogs as it is muscle meat only and lacks mineral content and roughage.

    The main issue people with large to giant pups have with dry foods is the very high protein levels in the puppy varieties. These can lead to excessively fast growth. Big bones are best to grow slowly and not be pushed along by intensive nutrients.

    My pups grow on pet mince (preservative and additive free - essentially ground chicken frames etc) mixed with either cooked rice/pasta or a plainer kibble like Coprice or Bonnie. They usually go onto adult kibble at about 6 months to ease up on extra protein.

    Carcass food is the best, chicken frames are great for pups unless you feed it ground into mince, or brisket bones. Any edible bones fed raw.

    A rotty will be liable to swallow necks which can cause choking of regurgitating - bigger bits slow them down.

    My large pups also have calcium supplements in certain phases and stages of growth, as well as some tinned fish in their food a few times a week.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Rural NSW


    I have used supercoat puppy then adult with no problems, mine are not giant breeds though. They have chicken wings, carcases and boxes of bones from the butcher that I get a lot of fat off then freeze. They also get suitable table scraps and also at times a raw egg, sardines in their dry food. The vet comments on good health, great teeth as well as their shiny coat.

    Dogs do very well on supermarket food too.. The best food is the food that your dog does best on.

    My last blue heeler had pal dry and pal tinned as well as some of the former things I mentioned. He had a very healthy life and lived to the extreme end of the usual life span for blue heelers.

    There are a gazillian feeding threads back through the pages.
    Last edited by Di_dee1; 02-05-2012 at 10:49 PM.

    Any posts made under the name of Di_dee1 one can be used by anyone as I do not give a rats.

  7. #7


    Oh thanks Di for reminding me.

    I too have used Supercoat puppy and not had an issue with it, when fed with meat. I only prefer the Coprice for slightly less poo output and bigger bags...

  8. #8


    The responses i have read on here do sound sincere and make allot of sense.

    I guess its like us humans if we actually ate more foods that were natural and preservative free we might be much healthier and live longer.

    One of the breeders i spoke to did mention offal but as i am in metro sydney i am really unsure of where to buy offal. Does anyone have ideas on where i could possibly find offal in Sydney? I am sure it wont keep as long as other meets

    thanks again, this is a very informative forum and so far people have been great with all the advice.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    SE QLD


    I normally see offal type meats in Coles and woolies - or you could go to your local butcher and ask about it!

    There is no psychiatrist in the world like a puppy licking your face.

  10. #10


    ok cheers jadielee it might sound a little naive but i have no idea what offal was until i got on here lol

    Spoke to a breeder and she discussed diet for her dogs and she mentioned offal amongst other things....i didnt want to admit i didnt know what it meant lol

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