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Thread: Desexing, worming and vaccinations for pup

  1. #1
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    Default Desexing, worming and vaccinations for pup

    Hi,
    Jemima is 11 weeks old (roughly). She has not been vaccinated at all, her previous owner said that she had wormed her but her tummy looks a bit wormy to me, I will try and put up a pic so you can see. She is also not desexed.

    So, am I okay to worm her, will it make her ill if she actually has been wormed recently?
    What vaccinations should she have had by now, and have in the future?
    When should she be desexed?

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Jemima should have had a few vaccinations and been wormed by now. Desexing is best done around 6 months the vet told us. Oskar is 6 months and will be desexed end of January. I recommend that you get her booked in to the vet asap, and they will tell you all about it and give her a check up. Fingers crossed she is healthy. If you have young children, please make sure they wash their hands after playing with Jemima, as hookworm can be transferred from pup to children. The vet informed us of that on Sunday when Oskar had his 6mth booster for his heartworm.

  3. #3
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    Thank you
    I am waiting for our vet to return from Christmas holidays and Jemima will be going straight in for a puppy vet check.

    We wash our hands after petting and playing with her, but that is interesting about hookworm. I had absolutely no idea it could be transferred like that.

  4. #4
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    Me neither, the vet told us that children have had eyes removed because it was thought they had tumours, but they turned out to be hookwork, and if your children are little grots like mine lol, I do actually have to keep on about washing hands.

  5. #5
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    I would get the worming done ASAP. I use interceptor which does intestinal worms and heart worm. But you can get sentinel spectrum which also does flea's. There isn't another vet you can go to in the mean time to get her first shots done? Also don't forget to get her microchipped as well! Well worth it if she will be an adventurer when she is older haha

    There is no psychiatrist in the world like a puppy licking your face.

  6. #6
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    Thanks Jadielee, I will have a look for that one today.
    I live quite rural so there is no other vet around unfortunately.
    Jemima


  7. #7
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    McPoochington
    I would not wait for your fave vet to come back to get the worming and vaccinations sorted. He or she should have a "locum" (aka fill in) who can recommend a vet or do it for you. Animals do not stop getting sick or injured for Christmas holidays.

    You need to vaccinate against
    distemper, parvo, hepatitus, and kennel cough

    I usually get a "C5" vax for my dog every year - because we do a lot of stuff with other dogs and sometimes I need to board her at professional boarding kennels and they all require C5 vax level. Some places will allow "Titre testing" and do a top up only if required for some elements of the C5 - but buying the vaccinations separately as needed tends to cost more than getting all of them annually - and kennel cough is like the flu - needs to be annual. Depending what product the vet uses, a puppy will need between one and three shots and then two weeks to be fully immunised for a year, and then annually.

    Care of your dog: Vaccinations

    You also need to worm against intestinal worms including hydatid/tape worm especially if you're in an area where there are foxes and cats live.

    And you probably need to give a heart worm protection - but if the puppy already has this, treating it can kill the puppy so it can be better to test for heart worm before treating. This comes as a chew or a spot on or an annual shot (with two shots the first year).

    I took a risk - since I got my puppy in a drought year and just got her the heart worm shots for the first year and after that I used revolution spot on - which also covers fleas and some other nasties.

    Depending where you live - eg Hunter Valley and other warm damp areas - paralysis tick may be a problem, so then you'd need to do daily tick checks including inside the ears, mouth and around the anus and all the furry bits, and between the toes and in the arm pits etc. Every single inch of dog. And use tick preventers.

    Sentinel does an all wormer that includes tape worm, digestive worms and heart worm in a chew - which is usually very popular with the dog - unlike some worming tablets like canex - where you have to wrap the things up in peanut butter and sardines to get the dog to eat them.

    Dog Worming on Vet Products Direct

    Different products do different things, so it's a good idea to find a vet and work out a system with them.

    Microchipping is cheap and an easy way to get your dog back should it escape or even be stolen.

    Desexing can be done as young as 8 weeks but for large breed dogs or dog sport dogs or working dogs it can be better to wait until they are older eg 12 to 18 months for normal bone development - again vet advice is good. If you got your puppy from AWL or RSPCA they desex before they adopt out. My dog was done at 8 weeks old and so far - no problems. But not everyone is lucky.

    If you do decide to wait to get your dog desexed - she may have a couple of seasons first, they can happen around 6 months old for some dogs, the smaller the dog breed the more likely it is to happen younger but some of the big bitsas can start early too. You can get the pill for your dog to prevent seasons and unwanted pregnancies - but I don't know if this would interfere with bone development or not. Another question for your favourite vet.

    And I would also be looking for opportunities to get your dog to have controlled supervised play dates and meetings with as many other vaccinated dogs as you possibly can as often as you can and to meet lots of people of all different sizes and varieties too. And any other animals you want it to be well behaved around. Or you may end up with a dog you cannot take anywhere because it can't read dogs or people and tries to attack every one that it meets outside your family.

    Focus on rewarding good behaviour and ignoring but limiting bad behaviour - ie have the dog on lead so it can't charge, chase or bite, don't scold barking or growling or you lose your dog's warning signals and you get a dog that attacks without warning. Reward attention on you or calm behaviour. If your dog won't take a treat and can't focus on you, you need to back off from the focus of its attention and try again until you can work with the dog.

    Read the dog star daily site. It has nearly everything you need to know for raising a well behaved puppy.

    You also need to register your dog with your local council. Depending where you are, you may get a discount for desexed and microchipped and obedience trained.

    What should I do when I bring home a new puppy? - RSPCA Australia knowledgebase

    And lastly - exercise little bits often. Ie don't over do it with a puppy that is going to grow into a big dog or you will have expensive painful joint problems in the older dog. Five minutes per month of age is a good start for a single exercise session. Remember to take puppy outside to toilet after waking up, playing, or eating. And the puppy doesn't always know when to stop - when it's tiny - it will be up to you. And try to avoid letting the puppy jump a lot until it's fully grown too. My brother's staffy broke a leg jumping off a chair when she was six months old. That was a painful experience for both of them. A puppy does not want to be kept confined in a crate to heal up.

  8. #8
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    Great advice Hyacinth

    The tick collar I use is preventic, they are roughly around 12-15 dollars and last 2 months. We have never had a problem with ticks yet.

    I agree that it is worth the drive to find an open vet, considering the conditions these people kept their dogs in you never know what the pup may have picked up. Nothing worse than hearing a dog with kennel cough, it sounds horrible.

    There is no psychiatrist in the world like a puppy licking your face.

  9. #9
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    I just wanted to explain the vet thing as I think there is some serious doubt about it.
    I live in a rural area. We have a vet here, who is only open 2 days a week, and only by appointment. The nearest vet outside of town is an hour away, and at the moment, it is not a drive I can make. I am waiting on Jemima's harness to arrive via post, as we have a Woolworths and post office here, and not much else. I will not take an unrestrained animal in the car (I know I did it to get her home but I think that was a bit of an exception).
    I certainly appreciate the importance of having her vet checked and getting her shots and having her wormed, this has been on my mind since I brought her home.
    But the simple fact is, I honestly don't have access to a vet for the next 10 days or so. It is not a case of waiting for a specific vet, as far as I know there is just the one who works out here.
    I guess I could call a vet to do a home visit, but I am not entirely sure that is something I can afford right now, I have been told they charge more for home visits?

    Please be assured that Jemima's health is a top priority for me, getting her checked is not an 'if' I will get her done, it is a case of 'when' I will get her done.

    I do truely appreciate all of the advice everyone is giving,
    Jemima


  10. #10
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    Yeah they probably would... specially if you live an hour away! Anyway I do hope you stay on the forum! She really is a beautiful girl and I would love to see her pictures and what not as she grows!

    There is no psychiatrist in the world like a puppy licking your face.

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