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Thread: Serious Nail Clipping Issues.

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    FNQ
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    Default

    Mmmm. Since Roly is an older dog, and you don't want to take long to clicker train him, I think it might be an idea to remove it. May be smarter than stressing him out, and cheaper in the long run, and also removes the risk of injuries from such long claws.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    12,581

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    Two weeks - twice a day - clicker training five minutes/30 treats - where's the harm in having a go. First session get him to sit in your lap. Second sesssion sit in lap upside down, third - touch a paw, just touch it. Work down from the leg if necessary. Progress to feel paws, then allow you to wave around an ordinary nail file. Then touch each claw while you hold paw... hold claw. Nail file - allow or encourage sniff and inspection, treat for being calm. Touch claw with nail file... each of these might need breaking down across several sessons.

    But over two weeks you'd have 14 x 2 sessions and 840 treats all up. Start each session by getting out the treats and nail file, so hopefully he starts getting happy when he sees the nail file way before you've tried to touch him with it. Eventually you would be able to do one claw a day while watching telly...

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond
    Posts
    1

    Default Italian Greyhound with long claws

    How do I know when a claw is to long? I have an italian greyhound whose claws are about 8-10mm long they are not curled under or circled (he has no dew claws). In fact I think they look correct, however, my wife insists I cut them. The length out from the pad tip doesn't look excessive, the top curves gently down to meet the ground and the contact surface of the claw is worn to form a line of the bottom of the pads. The quicks are easy to see in his claws and they are no more than 3-4 mm from them to the tip. I do not want to restrain him as he is terrified and struggles desperately. It feels like I could break a leg if he jumped or twisted suddenly. I have already paid a couple of thousand diollars to have a broken leg fixed when he jumped off a bed when he was a puppy, don't want to go there again.

    What should I do?

    Kind Regards, Clint.

  4. #24

    Default

    You might find the training technique suggested here of value:

    YouTube - CIA Case File: 'Tucker' Nail Trim

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    12,581

    Default

    ClintS

    There's a couple of links I posted on Page 4 that explain how to train your dog to be relaxed about it and what a nicely trimmed claw looks like.
    http://www.dogforum.com.au/dog-groom...tml#post113141

    Where the quick is depends on how long the claw is, ie the longer the claw, the longer the quick so you can't just chop a claw back to a sensible length all at once, but I already wrote that and now I'm repeating myself.

    Anyway - a good length in my book:

    1. when the dog is in a "Stand" position and relaxed on a hard surface like tiles or concrete - none of the claws should touch the hard surface.

    2. if the dog jumps on you, you don't get claw scratched.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    4,241

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    Wooo! Success!

    From this...

    Too this...
    Education not Legislation

  7. #27

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    I have to sedate Lop,no ifs buts or maybies.
    There should be no stigma attatched to having to put your dog under to have them done. As long as it gets done is the important thing....speaking of......come here Loppster possum
    GageDesign Pet Photography
    Site still in construction so will post link when it's finished.

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